Days 12 to 15: This Time, It’s the Right One

René et Sylvia, des Pays-Bas

Day 12: More Rest

After a trip to Strasbourg, also known as the foot saga, see the previous article, I find myself at a small campsite in Rothau, a small village near Schirmeck, just a few kilometres from the trail. I am far from having an unlimited budget, especially after spending nearly 250 euros on shoes, socks and insoles, which was absolutely not planned 😅. I try to prioritise campsites over hotels and refuges, which are more expensive.

As my Achilles tendons are still cracking a little, I choose to take yet another rest day, yes indeed, never two without three. 

At the campsite, I meet a lovely couple from the Netherlands, René and Sylvia, who are chasing good weather. Their daily destination depends on where the sun is ☀️. We share two meals together, talking about our adventures. They generously offer me wine, sausage, cheese and herbal teas. 

Later in the evening, Alex and his friend join me at the campsite after walking together from Saverne. They have just completed a nearly 40 kilometre day. I also have the pleasure of meeting Leila, a great adventurer who completed Te Araroa in New Zealand a year ago. Unfortunately, she has to return to Switzerland the next morning. I am very happy to see Alex again, who has become my trail family since Niederbronn des Bains.

Alex, Leila and me on the way to Schirmeck

Day 13: Testing the New Shoes and a Difficult Visit

Today, I finally get to test my new hiking shoes, the Asics Trabuco 12, bought thanks to William’s good advice. I am quite nervous about my tendons and truly hope that this time will be the right one. Today’s plan is a short ten kilometre walk to see how things feel.

The day begins with a visit to a former Nazi concentration camp. It is an emotionally very difficult experience. Even though I have already seen many films and read several novels about concentration camps and the Second World War, standing in the very place where these horrors occurred makes the tragedy feel even more real. We see remains of prisoner bunkers, a gas chamber, a gallows where prisoners were hanged, and historical photographs of the site. I did not take any photos, as I did not feel able to.

After this visit, we resume walking and reach our bivouac spot for the night in the late afternoon. We are joyfully welcomed by Jelly, an eight year old Border Collie, who immediately demands cuddles and scratches. We also meet up with Sandra for the evening.

View from our bivouac
With adorable Jelly, an eight year old Border Collie
Another beautiful sunset 😊

The very good news is that I had no foot pain all day. Tomorrow, I will gradually increase my daily distance.

With Jelly 🥺🐕‍🦺

Day 14: Arrival in Barr and First Restaurant

The next morning, I say goodbye to Jelly and set off again towards the village of Barr. After a few kilometres, I catch up with Sandra and we walk together for several hours.

Sandra, who has already completed the PCT

Alex, also known as Speedy Rocket because he walks very fast 😅, joins us around lunchtime, despite having started forty five minutes after us. He tells us he has found a huge amount of blueberries, sorry to the French, I know you say myrtilles 😉. We therefore spend a lovely hour picking these delicious little fruits.

Blueberry picking break

At the end of this 22 kilometre day, with my tendon feeling good, hallelujah, we arrive in Barr, a beautiful and colourful village. As soon as we arrive, we are greeted by the exquisite smell of Italian pizza. Decision made, I treat myself to my first restaurant meal of this hike. And it is so good 🤩.

Arrival in Barr, a beautiful village surrounded by vineyards
First restaurant in over two weeks, a big change from trail food

Day 15: Longest Distance Ever

When I wake up, my foot is still holding up well, and for those who are tired of hearing about my feet, I am sorry 😅.

While I plan to do another day of around 25 kilometres, my little outing turns into my personal record for distance in a single day, 34 kilometres. I know, true hikers, it may not sound like much to you, I will try to do more next time 😉.

Leaving Barr, kilometres of vineyards
View from the top of a castle 🏰
At the end of this 34 kilometre day, we spot a magnificent sunset through the trees.

We take a break for dinner, then set off again around 7.00 p.m. It is always a lovely time to walk while enjoying the sun slowly sinking in the sky. In the end, we arrive at the castle around 9.00 p.m.

A Short Reflection on the Past Few Days

After having to take numerous rest days, making endless trips to find suitable shoes, and dealing with half days of walking, I am so happy to be able to return to a normal rhythm.

I cannot wait to see what the trail has in store next 😊 See you very soon, everyone.

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