Days 65 and 66: Hello Chamonix!
I wake up with a start. The sun is already well up. Oops, it is eight o’clock and I forgot to set my alarm. Technically, when bivouacking, the tent must be taken down before nine, which leaves me just enough time to get organised. Most hikers have already left. As my day is going to be an easy one, having already completed the Tour du Mont Blanc last year, I decided to descend directly to Les Houches from the Flégère Refuge, I take my time over breakfast. Around ten o’clock, only a handful of people remain and I take the opportunity to admire a place that was overcrowded just the day before. After taking a few photos and making a short stop at Lake Blanc, I head towards the Flégère Refuge, where I bivouacked last year with my friends from the Tour du Mont Blanc. Passing through again one year later feels quite funny and gives me a strong sense of déjà vu.
Purists, look away. You have been warned. I have had a bit of pain in my right shin for a few days and since I followed the same route last year, I decide to spare my legs and buy a gondola pass for the descent. I must admit, allowing myself this small shortcut feels rather good. Within minutes, I am back down in the valley, a few kilometres from Camping Mer de Glace. With a name like that, you would expect high prices. Luckily, Colin, Lauren and Scott, three other HexaTrekkers, are camping there as well and we can split the cost of a pitch.
I arrive at the campsite and am greeted by Colin, who quickly shows me around. I met Colin during Stage 4 and since we were walking in opposite directions, we meet again today on Stage 2. For the past two years, Colin has been hiking long distance trails, from the Pacific Crest Trail in the United States to Te Araroa in New Zealand. With his six kilo pack, I suddenly feel very heavy carrying a rucksack twice that weight.
A few hours later, Lauren and Scott join us. Although we have been in contact on social media for weeks, this is the first time we meet in person. Once everyone is clean and rested, we head into Chamonix to treat ourselves to greasy chips and hot dogs at the excellent Cool Cats restaurant. We also meet another HexaTrek hiker, Roel, who joins us for dinner. It feels great to eat something other than pasta for once. The meal reminds me of good old Quebec poutine. I also enjoy a delicious coconut ice cream, I am still dreaming about it, and around ten in the evening I head back to the campsite. Tomorrow, a lie in awaits.
The next day, I wake up around ten thirty. Rest days are for doing laundry, resupplying, recharging batteries, writing and planning. In the end, we rest from the mountains, but we are far from inactive. Between visiting the town and trips to the supermarket, we still walk between five and ten kilometres a day. Not exactly rest, but it still feels wonderful.
In the afternoon, Robin and Valentine join us. I met Valentine in Saverne more than a month ago, but I had not yet had the chance to meet Robin. It is lovely to be such a big group enjoying the beautiful, yet very crowded, town of Chamonix. In the evening, we all treat ourselves to a good burger. We share stories and mishaps and laugh a lot. Later, we even organise a hitchhiking competition. Two teams of three race to see who gets picked up first. The three guys stand no chance against our team of three girls. We get picked up by the very first car, while the guys arrive back at the campsite a good fifteen minutes later.
Tomorrow afternoon, I will head towards the Col du Tricot. The morning will still be for resting, as thunderstorms are forecast until mid afternoon.
Days 67 and 68: Back on the Tour du Mont Blanc Trail
After a second lie in, yes I love them, we say goodbye to Colin, who heads off in the opposite direction towards Lake Geneva. I pack my rucksack, unlike Lauren, Scott, Robin and Valentine, who decide to treat themselves to a second rest day. For my part, I prefer to move on, even if it is only for about twelve kilometres. The next two days of the HexaTrek overlap with the Tour du Mont Blanc route, which experiences a huge surge in visitors between mid July and mid August. To avoid walking in a long line behind dozens of people and to wait for the afternoon storms to pass, I decide to shift my stages compared to the classic TMB itinerary.
After lunch in Chamonix and a few hours spent in a café, I say goodbye to my friends and head towards the trail. My hiking day starts very late, around five in the afternoon. This way, I walk on almost empty paths and only meet the occasional hiker. Even though I completed this stage last year, I am delighted to be back, this time with good weather. Last year, I walked from Les Houches to Les Contamines in thick mist. This time, the landscape unfolds before my eyes and I am lucky enough to see the Bionnassay Glacier.
The climb towards the Col du Tricot is much faster than last year. I now have around twelve hundred kilometres in my legs. As I reach the top, a rustling sound makes me jump. I realise that an ibex is lounging right on the summit. I take a few photos before descending towards the Chalets du Miage, where I will bivouac for the night. There is a free wild camping area available for hikers.
As the Tour du Mont Blanc is extremely popular, more than twenty tents are set up here. Thankfully, the area is large. The place is peaceful, surrounded by mountains, and I feel calm. I eat while reading a novel by David Foenkinos, then head to bed around ten.
The next morning, the goal of the day is the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme, so I can enjoy both sunset and sunrise from the pass. The day unfolds under blazing sunshine and an intense heatwave. I take a short break in Les Contamines to recharge my batteries, then start the climb towards the pass. The first section, partly asphalted and very steep, is just as painful as last year. At the Balme Refuge, on the verge of heat exhaustion, I have to stop for a good hour to cool down and hydrate properly.
I continue up towards the pass, now free of snow, unlike last year, giving it a very different appearance. At the top, I come across not only a group of around twenty hikers doing the Tour du Mont Blanc, but also a horse accompanying them, carrying all of their packs. I hope that this load, which must weigh more than one hundred and fifty kilos, is not too heavy for the poor animal.
Around five in the afternoon, I drop my pack next to the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme. About twenty tents are already scattered around. This comes as no surprise, as the refuge sits at the crossroads of the HexaTrek, the Tour du Mont Blanc and the Tour du Beaufortain. Tomorrow, I will leave the busiest trail behind and once again avoid walking in single file.
Of course, I end up pitching my tent a few dozen metres from a group that decides to be noisy and party until eleven at night. I seem to have a talent for choosing awkward spots. My tent is not well oriented and sways like a boat. Too tired to move, I accept it. I enjoy a quiet moment alone to finish my novel, with a beautiful sunset unfolding behind me. The night is calm once the hikers are too tired to keep celebrating. I cannot wait to see what tomorrow has in store.